Fogo & The Road to the Shore, Again

Greenspond & Fogo, Newfoundland (Map)

Spring 2012.


I returned to Central Newfoundland and drove almost exactly the same route I did back in 2009.

Back in 2009, I wasn't so enamored with the idea of seeing every Newfoundland town. As I was driving along the coastal highway, I decided against driving the 15km to Greenspond as I didn't know of anything I wanted to see there.

After returning home, I looked up Greenspond & kicked myself for not turning off the highway. Greenspond is a lot like other nearby towns such as Trinity, Bonavista & Tilting, where as early trading centres they now have many attractive buildings because of their continued prominence.

This is their 1900 Courthouse, which Greenspond advertises with a highway sign; a highway sign which should have been enough of a clue that I would like Greenspond.

There's a lighthouse in Greenspond as well, but unfortunately it is on an island 200m offshore. I had cash money with me this day in hopes of finding a boat ride to the lighthouse; but my anti-social weariness kicked in & I left it for another day.

Although that day won't be early in the calendar year, as a polar bear attacked the lightkeeper's house this past April!

St. Lukes Anglican Church in Newtown.

I wanted to spend the night at a dumpy looking motel along the road to Twillingate, but after taking a wrong turn, I ended up in Twillingate itself instead. Much to my chagrin, the cheap motel I knew in Twillingate had now underwent renovations and was $40/night more.

I went for a nighttime walk through the town to cheer myself up. The above picture is their Loyal Orangemen's Lodge.

The next morning I went back to Fogo Island.

(Where I had went to Change Island on my 2009 trip, I have been to Fogo on that winter 2010 trip.)

This was my first time taking one of the ferries where sea ice was present and you traveled through the stuff. We didn't need an icebreaker, but we did arch our course into the areas where there wasn't so much ice. As we moved along, I stood at the back and watched pool table-sized ice slabs angle beneath the boat & squeeze away from our vessel. Once we arrived at Fogo Island, the boat eased into port as two chunks of ice cracked between the ship and the wharf.

No one else on the boat was as fascinated with the ice chunks, which made me wonder about the extent of ice conditions which they travel through as residents.

Having been to Fogo already, and having been very thorough the first time, this trip was a cleanup trip for me.

I had seen a picture of the F. U. (Fisherman's Union) Trading Co. building on Flickr, a building which I somehow missed the first time.

Look at that cool second story window!

Fogo's Burnt Point Lighthouse isn't very hard to reach, so of course I returned to that point of land.

The miniscule post office in Island Harbour.

One of my favourite pictures from my winter trip was a dramatic skyline shot from the Lookout Trail in Deep Bay.

I climbed the steps & snapped several pictures, so I could merge & crop them into a springtime comparison.

It doesn't seem that much changes in Deep Bay in 2 years.

I continued into the barrens behind the Deep Bay Lookout Trail, as I wanted a picture of the new artist's retreat they built on the pond back there.

A couple of artists have taken up residence on Fogo Island, financing three modern, striking buildings upon the desolate landscape. They're trying to reinvent the island as a destination for artists. (I feel they have their work cut out for them, but all the more power to them at the same time, as these buildings are really neat & create an interesting scene in rural Newfoundland.)

Of course the retreat was locked, so I could only peer inside. I wondered about coming out here for a few days with a box of granola bars and some water - how many BRN posts would I finish!?

Maybe that's what I need to catch up to real time...

Moving along & returning to Joe Batt's Arm, I found that the once abandoned Mercer Memorial United Church, was now undergoing renovations!

When I was here back in 2010, I wondered about taking some pictures of this place, but I'm glad to see one of the few stone churches under renovation, rather than falling into ruin.

I continued to Tilting, where I walked out on the wharf to snap a few pictures of the picturesque town.

I ended up snapping pictures of the seal carcasses lining the sea floor all along the wharf instead. I suppose you have to throw them somewhere.

Snow buntings in Tilting.

There was a beach along the way to Tilting that was altogether too enticing to pass up.

This is the eating spot when you find yourself on Fogo Island. I refilled my energy bar with another awesome chicken poutine.

Spent the night in the town of Fogo.

I forget why I couldn't eat at their awesome little Kwang Tung Chinese restaurant last time; but that wasn't happening again.

Opening the door, it was a moment of "oh man, look at this place!"

The food wasn't half bad either. It was nothing to write home about, but still better than you're imagining.

Leaving Fogo Island in the morning, I drove to Horwood since I didn't know when I'd be up here again.

This is their United Church.

I left Horwood for home, but had to stop at the sight of a cement mini-ramp beside the road in the village of Birchy Bay. Upon closer inspection, I realized two things: this mini-ramp was made by children as part of a summer camp project & that it was pretty bad.

I mean, it's awesome that they built something, but it really wasn't done right...

Then again, was it much worse than what I was riding back in Corner Brook the next day?


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1 - Greenspond Courthouse - Registered Historic Structures