We made our way out of Tizzard's Harbour quickly, but only 10 minutes away I wanted to stop in Moreton's Harbour. It's here that I'd noticed a fantastic building on previous visits in 2011 and 2014.

Cod was always fished locally in and around Moreton's Harbour, as well as up in Labrador. Lobster, salmon and especially herring were also caught, leading Moreton's Harbour to having six different merchants operating in the harbour.

The biggest merchants were the Bretts and Osmonds. The Osmonds had seven or eight buildings here, of which two remain, including the general store I was standing outside today.

Back when I first noticed this building, it looked so forgotten that it seemed like you could just wander inside. I'm not sure why I never stopped for a closer look, but I was happy to see it now getting some love.

Its renovation was a total surprise today. The general store is actually being fixed up so that it can become a rental space with a wet bar, with an AirBNB through the rest of the building. AirBNB can be evil in cities where there's a limited rental stock, but it can work wonders in places like Moreton's Harbour where a rundown building like this would be gone on some future trip.

(If you want to see pictures of the renovation progress, search Osmond Premises on Instagram.)

Over in Twillingate, I discovered that they'd replaced some green space and their Foodland sign with a tiny coffee hut and a small drive-thru. I personally loved this, as it reminded me of the American West and the coffee shops you find in Washington State and Oregon.

I hate when Newfoundland becomes more like Markham or Mount Pearl, but I'm fine with sacrificing a little bit of Newfoundland to become more like anywhere in America. LOL.

Thinking that a nice addition to today would be a moderate hike, Isy and I set off from Sleepy Cove on the Nanny's Hole Trail - located just to the west of Twillingate's (Crow Head's) Long Point Lighthouse.

The above view comes from the end of the trail, when we were close to the cliffs below the lighthouse. It might not appear like it from my photos, but the cliffs here are big enough that you get a bit nervous near the end as you take steps towards the coast.

Nanny's Hole might seem like a strange name for a geographic feature, but there's actually a couple trails with similar places around the island. Laughing at it the first time, today I was more focused on the views and birds.

Until I noticed the old metal rods stuck into the rock here, where the rods had eyelets for an wire handrail. This was the actual Nanny's Hole, and there must've been some type of rudimentary staircase here at one time for people who wanted to go down to Nanny's Hole.

Using the metal rods, bits of wire handrail and balance, I also scree surfed a bit and made it down to Nanny's Hole without too much trouble.

I loved the remains of disused infrastructure, where a wooden staircase would've rotten away long ago on this unforgiving coast.

Nanny's Hole smelled like kelp.

Back in Twillingate, we stopped at their remarkable Anglican Church but found it locked up tight. The adjacent old church hall was now the Isles Boat Building Museum though.

With Isy being a little Bob Villa, I wondered if she'd want to check out the museum and it turned out to be an informative visit worth our time.

One thing they do at the museum is build an actual punt (boat) every year and then raffle it off to raise money. Even though I have no idea what we would have done with a punt, Isy entered the raffle to support the museum, but thankfully we didn't end up winning (and having to buy a trailer).

Another surprise I had in hand was that we were headed to one of the two wineries on the island. Now as you can imagine, grapes don't exactly thrive in Newfoundland, so the two wineries make berry wines - and it's today that both of us learned that we don't care much for the sugary berry wine here.

It was a sin because the sommelier was so enthusiastic, but with flavours like Three Sheets To The Wind and Moose Juice, it was like being back at a Purple Jesus party sucking down the sweet mixture of booze and Gatorade crystals. Heck, I prefer the mix I'd get at JC's Purple Jesus parties.

This all led to Isy disagreeing with my birthday rules where you have to do certain things (i.e. skateparks, chili cheese burritos, abandoned buildings) no matter where you are. For her, we could skip the birthday winery if it was in Newfoundland, lol.

Another reason I chose Twillingate was because of Isy's love for both whales and presumably icebergs. I say presumably because she's never seen an actual iceberg - only small bergy bits - so I thought Twillingate would work perfectly. Except that it had been a mild spring and the iceberg parade was already over. As for the whales, even with the capelin rolling nearby, they were nowhere to be seen.

So we continued out of Twillingate earlier than expected, turning off at the NL-340-37 (Herring Neck Road) towards Salt Harbour where I'd seen good things about their Callahan's Cove Trail. Parking at the Anglican Church, the building didn't look like much from the outside, but the point of trying to check out Anglican churches wasn't to skip over ones like this that may go away without widespread news coverage.

Inside, the church surprised me with handsome pillars and a gorgeous roof. Even if the Anglican Church never closes this building, I was happy that I checked it out regardless.

The sign-in sheet only had about a dozen names, but the building was still in immaculate condition.

Exiting the church, it was time for Callahan's Cove Trail.

A lack of signage left us wondering if we were on the right track, but we simply went off from the starting point in Google Maps and found a trail, with four-wheeler paths intersecting every so often. We'd end up on some random hill unsure if we'd done the actual hike, but it provided a great view over Salt Harbour regardless.

The weather was immaculate and we lounged about for a while.

There was a good view off towards Bacalhao Island Lighthouse, one of the sixteen lighthouses I have remaining where I need the help of a fisherman to bring me out in their boat.

I've come to Salt Harbour in the past determined to find a ride out to the lighthouse. That wasn't the case today, but I was still open to chatting up anyone we found - except that Salt Harbour was quiet the whole time.

From Salt Harbour and the Twillingate area, we had some driving to do to get down to Musgrave Harbour. I finally wanted to remedy how we haven't camped outside the village in the sandy dunes besides the ocean, where I've always seen tents and campers propped up.

While I think the internet and the rising popularity of boondocking led to a greater number of campers along this coast on this day, I was still able to rumble down a sandy path and place us at our own little bit of shoreline.

About the only problem was the bugginess; in fact there were so many bugs that it sounded like it was raining as we approached Musgrave Harbour. Rosie even remarked on the coating of bugs on my car when we eventually reached St. John's.

The dog didn't give a damn about some blackflies, he was letting it all hang out.

Modesty, Kingsley! C'mon!

You have to take my word that this wasn't the Navi's Unconquered Lighthouses Tour disguised as Isy's Birthday, but yet again here we were across from one of the sixteen lighthouses that I don't have.

In this case it's North Penguin Island (it's that little tower you can see off in the distance). It looks so close eh? Probably could just pop over there in a packraft! Or maybe end up floating to Ireland!

I actually have a boat connect in Musgrave Harbour who told me of a guy who ran aground off of North Penguin, saying how it's all so shallow that the guy was able to simply jump off his boat into the knee deep water.

Ever since hearing that story, I've thought year after year of calling my buddy and asking if he could bring me close enough to hop out into said knee-high water. LOL. We'll see.

As with any time where there's campers and tents about, I worry about yahoos bothering us, but the camping night was quiet and perfect. I can't remember who won crib - I probably let Isy win because it was her birthday - but I do remember going out late at night to use the facilities, only to see North Penguin Island and another further lighthouse still on the to-do list (Offer Wadham), both flashing in the night.

That was enough to result in me reaching into the cooler for one more beer. The flies had seemed to chill out too.

Continue to Part 3...